Hi.
Currently I can not mill any pcb.
The bed is sloping on the x-axis.
This feature was requested since 2018, but no reaction…
greetings
jens
1 Like
The bed should be parallel to the build plate and Y axis. If it’s not, something was not installed correctly.
The Z axis should be perpendicular to the build plate on all 4 sides.
The Y axis should be perpendicular to the Z axis on all 4 sides.
The X axis should be perpendicular to the build plate on all 4 sides.
The material plate should be perpendicular to the X axis, although it’s hard to get a square in there to test.
If those things aren’t true, you likely have some debris in between the part and what ever it’s connected to. It’s pretty easy get some debris wedged in the odd crevice when machining. Once you find the area that isn’t square, you’ll likely see a gap when the two parts should be touching. Where ever the gap is largest is likely where the debris is. Just take it apart, clean it, reassemble, and retest.
I
Sorry about the problem you ran into.
If you purchased the machine from Snapmaker’s official online store or Snapmaker official amazon store, please fill in the warranty request via this link https://snapmaker.com/repair, and attach a video of the problem.
If you purchased from Snapmaker authorized distributor, please contact their official customer service for help.
Hope these could help you.
I have same problem, I destroy some cuter. CNC need leveling procedure like 3D printer.
same here! please allow bed leveling!
Don’t upgrade to the 3.0 for this feature since it doesn’t have it. I bought the 3.0 with the ONLY reason being I was told by support on the Kickstarter page that CNC would have bed leveling, this was a lie and it does not. If you’re planning to upgrade keep in mind that ultimately it’s just bigger print space and that seems to be the only real upgrade. There’s a ton of problems with the 3.0 units currently
Hi Mika, we are sorry we gave you the wrong impression that 2.0 would have bed leveling for CNC. We’ve tried our best not to cause any confusion for our users but we apoligize if our support has made a mistake. To compensate your need for CNC bed leveling, there is a way to even the surfaces with a special g-code file. What it does is that the carving bit will smoothen and level the entire bed. This process might be a little complicated but it’s doable.
This doesn’t always work as some copper boards are so badly leveled that it will strip in one area. I’ve been practicing this on the 1.0 for literally years and only have managed to get proper boards by using a flat end and doing a copper strip instead of a v bit routing. It’s super trial and error and sometimes they’re level and can work if everything is perfect but it’s so many variables, it would be way more convenient to have bed leveling and had I known this I would of just purchased a normal CNC machine instead of the 2.0 since the 1.0 3d printer is fine for me.
1 Like
I agree with Mika, for PCB milling you need the same accuracy as you need for 3D printing. Why is it possible for 3d printing and not for CNC milling? Can be the same procedure by using 4 calibration points, right?
Where can we find this g-code file JKC20?
In the picture below you can see that the traces on the right are carved through the copper layer but on the left only scratch the surface. If you want to compensate by increasing the target depth, too much copper is removed because of the V shape of the bit.
This is exactly what I’ve been talking about, I have literally 30 - 40 boards with attempts till I’ve learned to just use a flat bit and cut it real short and go at like 8% speed, it’s slow and annoying but it’s the only thing that works… Support has said v2 will have auto leveling in april but they won’t communicate on how I can have the firmware and just add it myself
If you fly-cut the waste board then you’ll have a Flat & Level surface.
No need for Auto Level unless of course your PCB’s are not uniform in their thickness.
PCB’s are almost never uniform in thickness unfortunately, I wish I still had my last 4 boards I tried to flatten so I could show you pictures, one side wouldn’t be touched while the other was completely stripped of all copper. Pretty horrible experience, now I use flat end bits that I cut down to be as small as possible and use 7% speed, wish I had a better option!
I just found the source for 1.7 not that long ago and am looking at how I can add auto-leveling myself, currently I’m trying to figure out how it switches between profiles for the different tool heads
Perhaps you could measure the thickness in the four corners and then shim it so it is level.
Hmm that’s not a bad idea, however it’s usually the middle that’s the worst culprit, lemme check if I can use a caliper to measure the differences even, though for milling frequently this is a huge pain in the ass
Look like a need a better caliper since mine only goes to 1.0MM, sadly even with that I’m getting 1.3 in some areas and 1.2 in others, i think because of the small difference finding a shim that’s 0.05mm is going to be a bit difficult
While it would technically work, I feel like I would rather invest my time into autoleveling in the software since it has better long term use, then I don’t need to manually fine tune the process 100x over every time I mess up a board, want a copy or want a new board
Understood. You will almost need a custom leveling routine to level to your current PCB. Do you anticipate that you’ll have numerous different sized PCB’s?